Sveti Klement Island or the good Croatian table
It is difficult to leave one of the pebble coves and crystal clear waters with which one runs into each step on the island of Hvar. However, it is necessary to make an effort and cross to the semi-desert island of Sveti Klement to taste its slow food and its kilometer 0 kitchen (both charmingly involuntary)
In the swamp of the port of Hvar the motor boats that serve as a taxi are piled up to arrive in 30 minutes to the semi-desert island of Sveti Klement (the taxi boat, about 66 kunas, around € 10). We are approached by Wolf, the owner of Hula-Hula Hvar, in his outboard boat. He wants to show us the Konoba Dionis, a gastronomic hideaway among olive trees, vines and Mediterranean mist directed by Pjerino Šimunovi, an ecochef who wears a mustache and flip flops with white socks and makes slow food and Kilometer Kitchen 0 without knowing that it is an ecochef that makes slow food and Kilometer Kitchen 0.
Before continuing, two definitions. Slow food: gastronomic movement that seeks to raise the food culture of citizens and promote a different quality of life, based on respect for natural rhythm and time. Kitchen Kilometer 0: cuisine offered by some restaurants under the premise of buying food directly from producers within a radius of less than 100 kilometers).
The Konoba Dionis: inner calm and slow food © Félix Lorenzo
The wooden tables of the Konoba Dionis are found outdoors, in a courtyard that receives the shade of a wicker visor and through which an Adriatic breeze runs the sea of pleasantness. The kitchen occupies an old house. The grill is outdoors, in the place where Pjerino receives you, at the same time cook and owner of the restaurant and flip flops. When you wait for the octopus salad, the fish of San Pedro and the grilled lamb, the picture can not be more Mediterranean. On the horizon you can see the island of Vis and the sea covered with a sweet milky mist.
The island of Hvar also has a good bouquet of unique restaurants. Specifically, three. One of them is the Konoba Menego, in the neighborhood of Groda de Hvar, on the street that goes up to the fortress, another great example of Mediterranean cuisine in the middle of the Mediterranean. This is the right place to taste the pasticada with gnocchi, an old recipe for marinated beef grandmother. The other two konobas are on the road that connects Hvar with Stari Grad, the old capital, 20 kilometers away, a quieter and more affordable town where ships that board passengers and vehicles arrive, unlike those that set course for Hvar, They only admit passengers.
We know that it is difficult to get away from the coves of Hvar ... © Félix Lorenzo
Along the way are the famous lavender fields of the island. The Oaza restaurant is located in a pleasant cove in Milna, 6 kilometers from Hvar, a perfect konoba to enjoy grilled fish facing the sea and to do so with the guarantee of a Tudor (the owner is Ivica Tudor) that everything What is put on the plate has been captured on the day. The Konoba Stori Komin It is another story. It is at the height of Milna but isolated in the mountains. In fact, he is the only living being in a ghost town. Bad Grablje is the Croatian transcript of Ainielle, the abandoned town that Julio Llamazares imagined in his novel Yellow rain. The houses still retain the old furniture and the old farm equipment. To dine here in the moonlight, you must first notify the cook and negotiate the menu (telephone: +385 915276408). If not, you can find the oven and grill available but no one in sight. Hvar, little Hvar, like Croatia, is a much bigger place than it seems.
THE GOOD DALMA TABLE
The extraordinary Konoba Dionis on the island of Sv. Klement opens from May to October, and reservations are advised to avoid mishaps. Its proposals include octopus and caper salads, lamb skewers and the different variants of white fish, such as denton, sea bass, monkfish, dorado and San Pedro fish. To get to the restaurant from the small jetty on the island, you have to walk a path through the Mediterranean forest.
Eat well on the Dalmatian Coast © Félix Lorenzo