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Editor'S Choice - 2019

From Madrid to heaven (stopping at the Casino Terrace)

This is a tribute to Madrid, that city full of impossible sunsets where to find answers for problems that, in reality, have no solution. On the way to its famous sky, we stop at the Casino's terrace.

Madrid is Madrid in May and on the back of a taxi, or it is not (I quote a big one). Madrid is Madrid precisely now, when the sun paints the asphalt of honey and toast, now when the streets disguise themselves as dance floors and each terrace is a jacuzzi with three friends and a blank notebook.

Madrid is also the Madrid of the impossible sunsets (sunset in the temple of Debod), the Alcazar brothers on the Gran Vía and the girls with shroud on the table drinking Juan Bravo. Madrid is still killing (yes) but it fires and the gallantry is forgotten after the second Martini on the stale sofa of the Cock. And deep down it doesn't matter, because we still love their acacias, their books and their coffees in La Italiana.

They say there is a Madrid for each person, but it is not true. There is a Madrid for every problem, that's why there is no better place to find solutions than this shortcut of three million pirates between the Manzanares and Alcobendas, which is said soon. Three million problems and a few coffees where officials, lovers and cordial chatters ask for another round "to see what happens." How not to love them.

My Madrid is the Madrid of Milford, the follies of David Muñoz and that gin fizz that you liked so much in Del Diego (remember?). My madrid of ink, paper and Manhattans. The one that goes up through Huertas, crosses Recoletos and goes down that stained street of “everything is now”. Without plans or further than the past; and what better future as the present is, right.

My Madrid is also the Madrid that crosses Alcalá to the prettiest facade in the world, that of this modernist belvedere cradle of "casinistas" (so the members of this society were always called) with tassels and bedding dressed in tuxedos. The Casino de Madrid imposes how it imposes the beauty of those girls that you know will never be yours (because you know it; these things are known, damn it) overwhelming as the beauty of the staircase work by José López Sallaberry that opens the doors of the gourmet house of this unique Madrid.

Talked with Paco Roncero of your Madrid: What to say about Madrid? “It is my city, where I was born, grown, experienced. The times I have been inspired by looking at their sky, in their markets and, of course, in the people who are the ones who really give the name of the city to the places ”.

La Terraza del Casino is a restaurant where nonsense (and siphons) stay at the doorstep of the facade designed by Ángel García Díaz. This is serious: “We base our kitchen on the raw material and from there we develop each dish. We rely on the best quality seasonal product possible. ” In the room Alfonso Vega commands and the (magnificent) winery is run by María José Huertas.

The menu starts with a long overture dedicated to snacks (Paco is the uncle after Pure State, remember) maybe the ones we liked the most were Parmesan's frozen strawberry, Galician octopus and hunting donut. In the glass, a Pazo San Mauro del Marqués de Vargas that gives way to the recital of dishes that make up the bulk of its tasting menu: Bolognese macaroni, fantastic red shrimp with peas and cream, Iberian bacon ramen with "soba" of smoked eel and perhaps the best dish of the night: sole to meuniere. So easy (and so hard). End of the party with a Payment of Santa Cruz de Viña Sastre and some extra drinks on that unstoppable terrace. Under the mantle of a turquoise sky that seems to whisper "everything is now." And we do that.

Paco says goodbye. Roncero loves traditional cuisine (he grew up between Ritz and Zalacaín) as much as he loves his Madrid and running shoes. What are you running from, Paco? “I think the question must be asked backwards, Jesus… in search of what am I going to? ;) ”

Well, from heaven.

What questions do I have?

Advantages of Madrid: sunsets and good restaurants © Corbis

Video: Evergreen Terrace - No Donnie, These Men Are Nihilists - Live @ Persistence Tour 2009, Wien (November 2019).

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