Romantic getaway in Lisbon: 'saudade' banned
Literary and literary, Lisbon It seems conceived by and for dreamers. Its undulating orography, with slopes that require the engineering of the elevators, seems to us a geographical whim so that there can be many viewpoints and we use the tram to save tremendous climbs. From that "Mythological animal" with which Saramago defined the ball of Alfama, the closest we have left to its origins in the form of a medieval town, Lisbon is deployed in very close and different neighborhoods - the Chiado, Baixa, Bairro Alto, Estrela, Belém ... - whose names whet the appetite of curiosity just through the eardrums.
All cities are discovered at street level, but in Lisbon, the simple act of walking leads us to great discoveries to go writing our personal guide. There is no other way to approach it other than looking at its balconies, its bookstores, its hairdressers, its fruit shops ... anything that makes the everyday a unique show.
100 Ways (Rua do Teixeira, 35, Bairro Alto). Tasting menu at a fixed price And without a letter, this cozy and intimate place was the bet, perfect for a two-way conversation at the Bairro Alto, which boasts of being one of the pioneers of the new kitchen in Lisbon. Sardines, salmon carpaccio, scallops, duck ravioli and the unforgivable Portuguese cod, poached here with potatoes, cabbage, tomato and cilantro, are some dishes of a traditional menu in its ingredients and inspired by its presentation, the work of Bosnian chef Ljubomir Stanisic. They also have a bistro in El Chiado, more informal, which opens until dawn.
The Bosnian chef's Portuguese bistro © 100 Maneiras
The oldest and most personal area in Lisbon deserves one, two, ten walks ... The monumental side of Alfama, a neighborhood with layout and spirit of town, is covered by the Castle of San Jorge, the Cathedral, the National Pantheon and the churches of Santo Estevao and San Vicente de Fora. The human side, its inhabitants, that they have made the outdoor drying of clothes a Lisbon icon. The musical side, the fado, that lamenting and arboreal song that vibrates better if it's night. And the most curious side puts that mixture in which the ancient becomes trendy and brings another wave to the streets like the Rua dos Remédios, with a new generation of places to keep on the agenda.
For a lively, friendly and not very trite night we recommend the following: Arcaz Velho, famous for its rum tail, To bela, a place of wines and tapas with good fado on Sundays and concerts of world music Thursdays, and Superfragilistic, a modern tasca and cocktail enthusiast. In the numbers 93-95 of the Rua Sao Joao da Praça, the Pois Café, a vaulted room with good chairs to accommodate, is a quieter alternative.
Typical balcony in Alfama © Corbis
General view of Alfama with the National Pantheon crowning © Corbis
If it's Tuesday or Saturday, the plan is clear: spend an entertaining morning browsing through the positions of the Feira da Ladra or 'flea market', the most traditional track in Lisbon. Furniture, sewing or writing machines, vinyl collections, mythical recordings of the greats of fado, old Portuguese posters ... everything goes and everything is sold and bought in this universe that goes from vintage to kitsch and is installed early in the surroundings of National Pantheon of Santa Engracia.
TWO PALACES, TWO HOTELS
If thinking of Lisbon comes to mind friezes of tiles, wrought iron railings on the roofs, clay floors or crispy flooring and baroque granite ornaments on doors and windows, then the Palácio Belmonte (Páteo Dom Fradique, 14) is your hotel in the city. And if you are a hopeless romantic, too. After a rehabilitation carried out with care, this palace gave way to one of the Lisbon's most elegant and authentic accommodations.
Sleeping among Lisbon tiles © Belmonte Palace
Exquisite was also the restoration that the Palácio Ramalhete (Rua das Janelas Verdes, 92), whose architecture places us in the 18th century more Portuguese. Only 12 rooms with their own decorative motifs; The three suites have original tiles in the bathrooms, views of the pit and its private lounge. The pool makes it a true oasis in the city center.
* You may also be interested ...
- Passion Break: a getaway for two in Capri
- Lisbon Guide
- All romantic getaways
- All articles of Arantxa Neyra
The fish oasis of Lisbon © Palácio Ramalhete
Belmonte Palace © D.R.