Long live the green kitchen!
They are not vegetarians, but it is these cooks like green. Vegetables and vegetables They are the vertical column of their menu, although they do not give up using other products. They have their own garden or work hand in hand with farmers in their region. In their dishes you will discover the forgotten flavor of a tomato or what an onion can give itself.
In some places like New York, green cooking has become a religion. We don't get here so much, but almost. It is not that the ribeye loses strength - proteins can - but vegetables and their relatives (mushrooms, for example) are rising. We have discovered that we like chlorophyll!
Great chefs like Michel Bras, Alain Passard, Michel Gerard or Andoni Aduriz bet long ago on give notoriety to vegetables In addition to healthy they are much more versatile than other ingredients. But it was when the boys from the North appeared, with Rezdepi and his restaurant Noma at the head when this light, fresh and distinct kitchen, received the final push. And that there with the little sun that there are strawberries are eaten without ripening. By the way, will Noma continue another year as # 1 in the list of the best restaurants in the world? We'll know today at night and we will tell you live from London.
Thistle mushrooms from the Mugaritz garden © Mugaritz
Strawberry spinach from Mugaritz © Mugaritz
In Spain there are also a handful of green chefs who stew roots, flowers, leaves, sprouts, tubers ... Rodrigo de la Calle breached the "Gastrobotany" A work philosophy that consists in recovering the cultivation of vegetables and fruits with gastronomic value and promoting their use in cooking. The work he does with the products of the Aranjuez orchard It is magnificent, even the desserts are prepared with vegetables! Don't miss it now that the asparagus and strawberry season begins.
Buried by nature © Rodrigo de la Calle
A dish come directly from the earth © Restaurante de la Calle
His neighbor Fernando del Cerro (José House) He has had the merit of getting his clients to change the traditional roasts for a vegetarian menu. His latest work focuses on seeing how vegetables behave when cooking them with different fats. The result dishes that harmonize fats and vegetables. Very interesting!
Lombarda with pomegranate, boletus and pine nut cream © Casa José
Javier Olleros (Culler de Pau) makes common cause with Finca Los Cuervos (an agricultural exploitation of its region) to recover almost forgotten vegetable varieties such as ground octopus or tear peas. You thought they were Basque, well no. It seems that the CSIC has certified that The original seed is Galician ... You always learn something. Olleros combines vegetables with seafood and fish from the estuaries and wonderful dishes emerge.
Green & More It is a novelty in Madrid. Ricardo Gil (33 of Tudela) has brought to the capital the best stew in Spain. When tasting it, a new dimension is discovered in vegetables: beans that are beans, asparagus that taste like asparagus, beans, artichokes ... no lemon or flour masks.
The Azagra Manduca, also in the capital, is provided with vegetables from an orchard in Azagra and by these dates composes a magnificent menu with vegetables from the Navarra riverbank It ends with a plate of fried eggs with glass peppers. Josean Alija (Nerua) organizes an authentic recital: onions cooked in a thousand ways, beets, tear peas, beans, asparagus, carrots ... all treated in a unique way, with studied cooking and unusual dressings.
The Azagra Manduca © The Azagra Manduca
In Matapozuelos, Miguel Ángel de la Cruz (The pharmacy of Matapozuelos) he invites us to eat the forest and the orchards of his province: now asparagus from Tudela de Duero and in August the menu of pine nuts and pineapples. In the meantime broths prepared with medicinal herbs and dressings based on flowers and plants.
And one more clue, is for the crazy people of mycology: It's called El Brote and it's in Madrid. All dishes are prepared with mushrooms from the most remote corners of Spain according to the season. Now in spring gurumelos and colmenillas, a very affordable joy: The account does not exceed € 25.
* You may also be interested ...
- The 101 restaurants to eat before you die
- All articles by Julia Pérez Lozano